The journey continues… ‘River Gambia Expedition – 1044km source-sea African odyssey‘
The journey continues… ‘River Gambia Expedition – 1044km source-sea African odyssey‘
‘Making Pictures of People’ Recent Perspectives on Photographic Portraiture Presented by FlakPhoto in association with The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art.
Tell us about these pictures – interview with Jason Florio “I made these portraits of Gambian Alkalos (village chiefs) and elders during a 42-day, 930km circumnavigation of The Republic of The Gambia, West Africa by foot…” read more here
Big thanks to Andy Adams/Flakphoto for including Jason Florio in ‘Making Pictures of People‘ – featuring the portraits of village chiefs and elders, from our 2009 expedition: ‘A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush - 930km African odyssey‘, which became an award-winning body of work called ‘Silafando’
Random post of the day:
Silafando: is the traditional way to greet village chiefs in The Gambia and Senegal. In Guinea-Conakry, on our most recent expedition, we found out that the tradition was exactly the same there but they used the word ‘Silafanda’.
During both the ‘A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush – 930km African odyssey’ and the ‘River Gambia Expedition – 1000km source-sea African odyssey‘, despite turning up unannounced, each village chief (the ‘Alkalo‘) that we met would kindly permit our raggle-taggle, road or river-weary, team to pitch our small camp every evening.
This was because we showed due respect, as strangers, when approaching the alkalo, by using the age-old tradition and protocol called ‘silafando’ – which roughly translates as ‘a gift to you on behalf of my journey’. This gift is often a handful of the bitter kola nuts. These walnut-sized nuts play an important role in West African culture and traditional social life. Once accepted, the chief would then share the nuts with his most important village elders. They break open and chew the nuts – valued for their pharmacological properties – which act as a natural stimulant and, apparently, an aphrodisiac.
We were then warmly welcomed into the village and, from that point on, everyone knows that you are there as guests of the alkalo - ensuring that you are treated with respect, as strangers, for the duration of your stay in the village. And, if any of the villagers dare to disrespect his guests, they would have the chief to answer to – along with the shame it would bring to their family.
Helen presents the ‘Silafando’ to the village chief in the Fouta Djallon Highlands of Guinea-Conakry. As you will see, it is often a lengthy process – particularly in this case, because we had to explain to the chief (and get permission) why we wanted to visit the source of the River Gambia – a sacred site, very near to his village
A solo exhibit of Jason Florio’s award-winning portraits of Gambian village chiefs (‘alkalo’s) and elders, taken whilst on our 2009 expedition – ‘A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush-930km African odyssey‘ - starts this Saturday, March 23, 2013. Venue: Rush Arts/Corridor Gallery, Brooklyn, New York
Thanks to David Cicconi and all at Trunk magazine for their recent feature on Postcard – ‘Gambia and Back’ about our ‘River Gambia Expedition – 1000km source-sea African odyssey‘. Much appreciated!
Trunk also recently ran 18 pages of Florio’s Gambina chiefs and elders (‘There and Back Again’) from our 2009 expedition – did we mention that we walked 930km around the small West African country?: ‘A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush-930km African odyssey‘
“There and Back Again” is Trunk’s longest layout yet. Photographer, Jason Florio, has created one of the most stunning portrait pieces we’ve ever seen…this is what you get from 15 years of traveling to a country, learning its customs, and being open with its people…a comfort level that is achieved only through a truly authentic relationship between photographer and subject…18 pages of breathtaking portraits of chieftains (or alkalos) from the numerous Gambian villages that Florio visited on his circumnavigation (by foot!) of the country. We would’ve run the article even longer, but needed to fit all of our must-read stories into the issue…” David Ciconni – Creative Director and Founder TRUNK
Diagabou village, The Gambia, West Africa
This little boy in the fur coat was the son of alkalo Bakary Dabo, the village chief. On the morning we were leaving, he had followed Florio and Ebou, when they returned from the village, with his friend in tow, to say goodbye. They vied for Florio’s attention with the camera.
I think both of them shine, in their own way…
Thanks for stopping by
Helen & Florio
Thursday 31st January 2013
‘Once upon a time, two ‘toubabs’ (european/white person) and two Gambian fishermen took two canoes and began an adventure: the River Gambia Expedition. Starting in the Fouta Djallon Highlands of Guinea, to pay homage to the source of the River Gambia, on into Senegal and finally into The Gambia itself. They paddled 700km on the River Gambia and travelled 400km overland.
However –let’s start where they left off in their last post (how they got up the mountain) –in Labé, the capital of the Fouta Djallon Highlands of Guinea-Conakry, West Africa…’
Sunday 2nd December – Labé-Horé Dimma, Fouta Djallon Highlands
The Fouta Djallon Highlands has to be one of the most visually stunning places we have ever been to, so far. The only real downside is that the ‘roads’ are utterly shocking!! They are truly horrendous to travel on. In fact, calling them roads is a real stretch. As mentioned in our last post, it’s like riding over the rockiest of riverbeds – the whole team suffered bruised tail-bones to prove it!
Today is a seminal day for us all. We are, at long last, going to the village of Horé Dimma, to pay homage to ‘le source de fleuve Gambie’ – the source of the River Gambia. This marks the true start of the River Gambia Expedition. Yayah Baldeh, the director of Galissa Voyage Trekking, a new company of local Guinean guides – one of whom, Saifoulaye (Saif, for short), we are taking with us through the Fouta – has arranged a sept place to take us and all our gear to Horé Dimma.
It’s a cool misty morning up in the Fouta as we load our camera and camping gear onto the battered old Peugot estate. We were anxious to get going, to get to the place that the whole expedition team been waiting to see. Thankfully, Horé Dimma is only about twelve miles away from Labé – regardless of the short distance, we still had to pay around $35 for the journey. Again, extortionate fuel prices in Guinea of course dictate transport costs. That, and us being ‘portos’ – as white people are called in Guinea, as opposed to ‘toubabs‘ in Senegal and The Gambia. However, once we got closer to the village, we could understand why the fare cost so much. After we had left the relatively smooth main road from Labé – there are actually a couple of miles of flat road, here and there, in the Fouta. Unfortunately, we didn’t encountered that much of it on our travels! – the road up to Horé Dimma took yet another 45 minutes as the old car rattled and bumped over deep ruts and big rocks. During our travels throughout the Fouta Djallon, how cars, or motor cycles, ever survive it past a couple of months of these roads will never cease to amaze us.
We reached what looked like the gate to a tiny hamlet…we could just make out a couple of traditional Fula tribe, conical-shaped, thatched huts and a few brightly-coloured, modern, concrete houses. As we began to unpack the car we were immediately surrounded, by four or five kids who would be our constant companions, from dawn until dusk, during our stay in the village.
When we met the Chief de Village, Mr Djallow, he sadly informed us that a young mother had lost one of her twin babies that morning. Immaculately dressed villagers, imams and elders were heading in droves towards the grieving woman’s compound. Later that night, lying in our tent, Florio and I could hear the distressed wailing of the villagers as they grieved with the young mother.
Despite the mass mourning, as we walked around the village, we were made to feel very welcome by everyone we met, . What, on first impressions, we took to be a tiny hamlet, turned out to be a warren of pathways to many traditional huts and concrete houses. Horé Dimma started with just one family: the Djallow’s. Now, 400 years later, everyone in the village is a Djallow – hundreds of them – all related in one way or another.
We made our camp in a pasture, which was part of the chief’s compound. And once the word was out, we were surrounded by the usual spectators: kids, the chief, elders, passersby, banana vendors – just in case we were hungry after our journey. Everyone came to stand and watch – and watch some more – fascinated by the tent, the hammocks, the solar panels for our gear and lights, which we laid out, facing the sun. When Abdou started to spark up the Kelly Kettle,that really peaked their interested! We LOVE our Kelly Kettle. Unfortunately, so did everyone else. “When you go, you leave that with us” we were to hear all throughout our journey – over and over again. Patrick Kelly and Seamus, his brother, could make a killing in West Africa with their ingenious kettle. Water boils in about 7 minutes and you don’t have to use ‘kembo’ – charcoal – so it’s environmentally friendly too. Just forage around for a few dry sticks, grass and/or leaves, will get it blazing nicely.
A local man came by that evening with a live rooster dangling from his hand, its legs tied together with a piece of string. And, after much passing around, prodding, poking, squeezing of limbs – and indignant clucking from the wide-eyed bird – by Abdou and the Galissa guys, it was deemed good enough for us to purchase for dinner the next evening.
The next morning, we were woken at 5.00am, by the ‘call to prayer’ as the muezzin’s voice echoed loudly over the crackling PA system. The ensuing prayers went on, loudly, for a very long time. One night, during our stay in the village, the muezzin started at 2am?! Was there was some kind of emergency in the village? Did we need to get up and rush to the mosque or something? During our travels in Muslim countries, neither of us had ever heard the call to prayer at 2am. The next day, when we asked what it was all about, Saif (our Guinea guide from Galissa Voyage Trekking) said, in his strong French accent, “they (the muezzin) did not check their watch”. Ebou added “they were fooled by the full moon” ?!
Not being able to get back to sleep, Florio and I got up and made our way to the hills, just outside the village fence. We enjoyed a rare thirty minutes – completely alone – watching a glorious sunrise before the kids discovered where we were!
Once we’d all breakfasted, with the source of the River Gambia tantalizingly close-by, we first set off to visit the source of another nearby river – the River Komba. The reason being is that last year, when we had been researching previous expeditions relating to the River Gambia, in the archival library of the Royal Geographical Society – Florio being a ‘Fellow’ (FRGS)and all, we make the most of the prodigious library when we are in London, UK – we came across an 19th Century explorer called Gaspard Théodore Mollien. Mollien had written about his brief visit to the ‘source de fleuve Gambie‘ and how, from the top of a hill, he could see the sources of both the River Gambia and the Komba. Therefore, we wanted to see both too.
Once we’d seen the source of the Komba, we made the short walk, across the fields and down the blustry, rock-strewn, hillside (which reminded me of the Yorkshire Moors), to Hore Dimma – ‘head of the river’ – as the source of the River Gambia is known in the Fouta Djallon.
The source of the River Gambia is surrounded – protected – by a low, red stone, wall. We entered through a tiny gap in the wall, into a copse of trees – Flo and I going first. We needed time to savour this momentous occasion. We had, after all, been planning this together for many months. In fact, the all-consuming laborious expedition pre-production, made it hard to believe that we would ever actually reach this point. Yet, there we were, on a gloriously tropical West African morning, about to see what it was that had drawn us to this place.
And. It was but a puddle. A mere trickle. From beneath the rocks.
But that trickle leads to a wide-open river – which we would discover a little further into our journey, once we got our Ally canoes onto the River Gambia – making its way through the Fouta Djallon Highlands, on into Senegal, then towards Banjul, The Gambia, where the river reaches over 10km wide, and finally the Atlantic Ocean. A source of life and income for thousands of people through all three West African countries – including our Gambian team mates: fisherman, Abdou and Ebou. Seeing the source, for them, had a much deeper meaning, perhaps, than mine and Flo’s romantic notion of 19th Century explorers. “I have heard and read about this since I was a child…I never knew how I would see this place” Ebou said, as he sat with Abdou, on a rock near to the trickle of water, “here is the source of our livelihood”. They cupped their hands, drinking and washing their faces in the cool water. I felt very emotional – for all of us – for our own individual reasons for being there. I was glad that I had my sunglasses on – as my eyes welled up. I must be getting soft in my old age!
We all drank from the tiny pool – the water was cool and tasted fresh – and then filled our bottles (thanks to NUUN for the very useful drinking bottles!). Souvenirs to take home with us. Abdou and Ebou said that they will give a capful to each of their family and friends. Flo and I decide that we will make tea with ours, when we return to New York next year.
On our last night in the village, when I got out of the tent to go to take a pee, the full moon lighting up the pasture, I looked up a the star-filled sky – no light pollution here – and it was difficult to imagine being anywhere else. When travelling, it’s always the things that we take for granted at home that give one so much pleasure . I think it has something to do with actually taking the time to truly notice and appreciate, the simple beauty of what’s around us.
That said…we have much more to share – including: visiting Dame de Mali in the Fouta; bone-rattling, 8 hour, taxi-bike rides up and down the Fouta Djallon Highlands; getting the Ally canoes into the River Gambia for the first time on the expedition; hippo encounters of the (very) close-up kind; hanging out with the gold miners of Senegal.
However, once we get back to a fast connection – we’ll be flying back home to New York, via a week in London, tomorrow (1st Feb) – we’ll be able to fully share our adventures with you. Of those, as mentioned, we have many…please stay with us.
As always, thank you for stopping by.
The Florios (H & Flo)
P.S. Please check out the expedition route on YellowBrick blog
November/December Press – 2012
Talk about serendipity. Here we are back in The Gambia, about to embark on the ‘River Gambia Expedition – 1000km source to sea African odyssey’, and Trunk Magazine are featuring Florio’s portraits of Gambian chiefs and elders in their next edition, which he took whilst we were on our last West Africa expedition – ‘A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush – a 930km African odyssey’
We’ll be posting an update shortly about our delayed leaving date for Guinea – and the start of the River Gambia Expedition. Right now, we are being held up by the freight company’s, shipping our gear down here, boat being delayed – by over 2 weeks so far! Anyway…more on that once we have spoken to the shipping company again today.
On a great note, and one word: OBAMA!!
Thanks for stopping by
The Florios (H & Flo)
On our last expedition, in 2009, we walked 930km around the small West African country of The Gambia (which is a country that we both love and seem to be drawn back to, year after year), with two donkeys and a cart – as one does – ‘A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush – a 930km African odyssey’. A big part of that journey was staying in a different village each night. That is, once we had asked permission of the village chief – the ‘alkalo’ – a traditional, and very important, protocol that has to be adhered to, out of respect for the chief, his elders and the villagers who hosted us.
Both Florio (Jason) and I have been back and forth to The Gambia for over 15 years now and, over the last four years we have worked together, on capturing his portraits of some of the Gambian people we’ve met along the way. However, Jason has also worked on a long-term project, called ‘Makaautu – mecca in the forest’ of which I have only been fortunate to have worked with him on over these last four years. Here is one of his very first images, from the Makasutu series…from ‘back in the early days’, which I love. We often muse over where these boys – now men – are now. Look at it carefully…check out what a couple of the young Gambian boys are casually holding.
Another early days photograph, from the Makasutu series…there’s strength, proudness and knowledge in these women, that you see often. Gambian women are the backbone of the country…keeping everything together – their families, their compounds, harvesting…multi-taskers (and tough taskmasters!), in the truest sense. I wouldn’t argue with these women!
And, one from our time on the road together – we met this man, Dembo, when we were camping in small village, whilst on our ‘Short Walk’. We heard him before we saw him, with his boombox blaring, skanking down the dusty road towards us..he then proceeded to do a little dance for us. It was a job just to get him to stand still, so Florio could take the photo!
And, just one more, from the Makasutu series of portraits – one that I’m particularly proud to be part of, after having spotted this wonderful old gentleman, Mr Kujabi, in the crowd – from when we were roaming around the ‘Coming of Age’ ceremonies, in the more rural village of The Gambia, in 2008. And, he was the one who insisted on having his little silver pipe in the photograph!
I hope the above images, give you a sense of why we do what we do…and why we can’t wait to get down to West Africa for our River Gambia Expedition – which will take us even further afield, to explore and document, unknown (to us, at least) territories.
We now have only 10 days left to the deadline on Kickstarter – 15th October 2012. If you’d like to support us, there are rewards – Florio’s limited edition fine art photography prints. Please check out the page
Thanks, as always, for stopping by. More updates coming very soon – particularly about our pending departure date to West Africa on 16th October!
Helen & Florio
From our 2009 expedition ‘A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush – a 930km African odyssey’, we shot this footage when we stayed with Alkalo (village chief) Landing Jammeh of Khalaji village – who can be seen in the video (tall man, wearing a blue and white grand bubu – and pictured below) kindly ‘assisting’ Florio whilst he made a portrait of the neighbouring Alkalo, Julu Sanyang.
The photo shoot resulted in what became an award-winning body of work for Florio – called ‘Silafando – a gift to you on behalf of my journey’ : the traditional method of greeting village chiefs and elders, when you meet them and ask something from them (in our case, to ask permission to camp in their villages and for Florio to make the portraits). We found out about this cultural tradition from one of our team mates, Samba Leigh, when we arrived in The Gambia, to prep for the walk.
Excerpt from Helen Jones-Florio’s forthcoming book ‘A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush - minty abanta!’:
‘Nevertheless, and more importantly as it turned out, Samba introduced us to the traditional intricacies of ‘Silafando’. The age-old tradition was something that we were not aware of and perhaps would never have been, but for Samba’s cultural knowledge on local protocol and tradition. “We need to plan our route so that we arrive in a village at the end of each day of walking” he told us “then we have to ask the permission of the Alkalo (the village chief) if we can set up our camp in his compound or in the village”. Protocol dictates that the Alkalo has a duty to welcome travelers and strangers, but only after the correct procedure is followed. This is what is known as ‘Silafando’ – which roughly translates as ‘a gift to you on behalf of my journey’ and involves presenting the village chief with a gift – traditionally, a handful of kola nuts; bitter, walnut sized nuts. These nuts play an important roll in Gambian traditional culture and social life. Once the gift is given, the Alkalo shares them with his closest village elders. They break open the nuts and chew them. They are valued for their apparent pharmacological properties – acting as a natural stimulant and, allegedly, as an aphrodisiac.’
To find out how you can get involved in ‘An Exchange’ - and get one of Jason Florio’s fine art photography prints, please check the photographer (and River Gambia Expedition 2012 co-leader) himself on Youtube:
More updates, photos and stories coming soon…
The Florios (Helen & Flo)